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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the family completely astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.